grassroots athlete Dawn Glanc reports on her climbing trip to Montenegro

Black Diamond grassroots athlete Dawn Glanc (who just won the Ouray ice-climbing competition last weekend) traveled to Montenegro this fall to check out the country’s climbing potential. Below is her report from the trip, as well as some excellent images from photographer Jeremiah Watt.

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In October of 2009 I was thumbing through a National Geographic Travel magazine. The feature topic was 50 great places you had to see. A small blurb about Montenegro caught my eye. The photo of a small village near sapphire blue water was hard to miss. The blurb mentioned that Montenegro was an up and coming tourist destination, and that rock climbing had begun to be developed. I had been looking for a new and unusual place to go climbing, so I decided right then and there that I would make Montenegro my 2010 climbing destination.

Over the next year I gained motivation for the trip. I began to convince two other climbers that Montenegro was the place to go climb. It was easy to sell both Pat Ormond and Jeremiah Watt on the idea. Finally after almost a year of planning we made the trip a reality when we purchased our plane tickets.

When friends asked us what our fall plans were for 2010, I would tell them that we planned to travel to Montenegro. The typical response was, “Where is Montenegro?” Montenegro is a small country in Eastern Europe that is along the Adriatic Sea. I choose to go to Montenegro because the entire country is limestone. The possibilities for long routes in the mountains and sport climbing was all there waiting to be explored. Some climbing had been developed, so I figured we would travel off the beaten path to see what we could find.

When I began to research the climbing in Montenegro, I found almost nothing on the Internet. The one website that had information about the climbing was hosted by the Outdoor Club of Podgorica. I blindly emailed the club to see if they had some information to share. Luckily for me a man named Vanja Pejovic responded. Vanja turned out to be a savior to me. He was a tremendous help in getting our logistics squared away. We had so many email exchanges before the trip, I felt as if we were old friends by the time we landed in Podgorica. Vanja met us at the airport and continued to be a great host throughout our trip.

We were lucky to meet the local climbers in Podgorica. They claim there are only 15 climbers in the whole country of Montenegro, 10 of which live in Podgorica and climb mostly at Smokovac. We met and climbed with seven of the 10. Including the only woman in the entire country who climbs. The climbers graciously hosted us in their country and homes. They climbed with us almost everyday, and showed us around town as well. It was a unique and fulfilling experience to meet the locals and share climbing as our common thread.

Unfortunately for us, the weather did not really cooperate with our climbing plans. Our first day was beautiful and sunny, then every day after for the next seven days it rained. Our plans to explore the mountainous areas were rained out. We were able to climb at two walls while we were in Montenegro before getting totally shut down by the weather. The two walls we climbed at were Smokovac and Kolasin.

We spent most of our time at the area known as Smokovac, which lies just outside of the capital city of Podgorica. Because of the overhanging nature of the wall, we were able to climb despite the on-going rain. Smokovac had very unique tufa formations that provided very intriguing climbing that required us to use every technique we knew. The wall offered more than 30 routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.13b. The first routes were bolted by visiting Austrians, with a few more added by other visitors. The local crew has now bolted the majority of routes at the wall. Some routes had been bolted and still remained unclimbed. The virgin routes were offered to us almost as a gratitude for traveling to their home crag. In total we claimed eight first ascents. Eventually the rain saturated everything and we were shut down from Smokovac.

Once we were shut down from Smokovac, we began to wish for better weather. Finally there was a brief break in the rain, which lasted one day. The day the rain broke we awoke to a blue bird morning. We were so energized by the sun we drove the two hours up to the mountain town of Kolasin. There tucked away was a climbing area that had been developed by the local Podgorica crew and some Austrian climbers. The climbing at Kolasin was very different then Smokovac with crimps, edges and pockets being characteristic. It turned out to be a great autumn sport-climbing day. Then it started to rain again that night.

After many days of rain Pat, Jeremiah and I were ready leave Podgorica to see the countryside. Unfortunately the weather forecast did not look favorable. We decided to head north to Croatia because the forecast was only for a chance of rain. The three of us piled into our rental car and drove eight hours along coastal roads to the city of Split. That evening we took a ferry over to the island of Hvar. We finally arrived to our destination; the Cliff Base climbers hostel in the village of Sveta Nedjelja. We had arrived in the dark, so we had no idea what to expect in the morning.

Once we awoke, we quickly realized that the island of Hvar was the place to be. It could not have been more of a polar opposite to Podgorica. The Cliff Base hostel is built right into the cliff wall and is located only a few meters from the Adriatic Sea. The rock climbing was also ideally located. More than 100 bolted sport routes were within a stones throw from the Hostel. A deep-water soloing area was also a short swim or kayak away. The weather finally cooperated with us and we had blue bird days to climb and swim. All of the climbing was great and we felt there could be no place more perfect than Cliff Base.

Looking back over our travels through Montenegro and Croatia, I can say we truly had a great trip. It was a lot of fun traveling with Pat and Jeremiah. We were always able to laugh and find the humor in most situations. Somehow we even managed to stay focused and motivated for climbing even though it rained almost every day. We were lucky to meet the local climbers and to have the opportunity to climb unclimbed routes bolted just for us. I am very inspired to return to Montenegro someday to explore the mountains and all that they have to offer. I am leaving this trip feeling excited and energized for another adventure.

Harness Considerations

There are many different designs of climbing harnesses .Most harnesses which are used in rock climbing are worn around the waist although you can also buy chest and full body versions which are especially useful for young children who may have just started out in climbing and give them more protection in the event of a fall.

Considerations

The type of harness you choose will often depend upon the type of climbing you are going to do. For example, those who go alpine climbing will often need to wear different amounts of layers so they’ll want a harness which is very adjustable although they don’t come with as much padding in order to save weight. There are also harnesses which are slimmer in design which have narrower leg loops which allow for more freedom of motion. These types tend to be preferred by rock climbers, boulderers, and those who enjoy climbing walls within gyms because of the flexibility the increase in freedom of movement allows. However, you can also buy multi-purpose harnesses too.

Despite climbers having very different opinions on the merits of individual harnesses, however, what they will all tend to agree on is that whichever harness you choose needs to fit properly, feels comfortable and is safe.

Comfort and Fit

A sure indicator that a harness is comfortable is that you should hardly notice that you’re wearing it. This is why you should always visit a store in person to try out a range of harnesses as opposed to buying one online as an ill-fitting harness will not only cause chafing of the skin which can result in sores developing, it will also impede your movement. Most importantly, however, unless the harness fits perfectly, it’s likely to be unsafe. When you go to try out harnesses, you need to make sure that you do this in the kind of clothes that you intend to go climbing in. A waistbelt should fit snugly just above the hip bones and, after the buckle has been correctly secured and doubled back, there should still be approximately 3 inches of webbing extending from the buckle. Leg loops should also fit snugly although you should still be able to fit your hand between the loop and your leg.

Correct Way of Wearing a Harness

A good climbing store will let you try on a range of harnesses and show you how they should be worn. Ultimately, they’re designed to spread out the impact of a fall between the legs and the waist and, in doing so, cause as little damage as possible. A harness should be worn so that the leg loops bear around two-thirds of the impact of a fall because your thighs, which contain bone and muscle, can more easily absorb the impact of a fall more than your waist around which is where most of your vital organs are situated.

Testing Out a Harness

Some outdoor specialists will be able to let you attach a rope to the harness and have it set up so that you can be suspended in it for a while. Here, you’ve got the opportunity to determine whether it feels just as comfortable hanging in it as it was simply walking around in it. You might also want to wear a pair of gloves and to see how easy it is to operate the buckles and to access tools which you might want to have attached to its loops. You’ll want to avoid chafing and blisters so you may want a harness that not only feels comfortable but has extra padding, especially if you’re climbing indoors in warmer climates where you may not wear as many layers.

Very slim people and younger climbers often opt for full body harnesses which will prevent them from falling out of the harness should they fall and be flipped upside down.

A good stockist will not only ask you how it feels but may also take you through a checklist of questions and your responses will enable them to determine whether or not the harness is right for you.

Mountain Climbing Equipment

Introduction

The thrill you get from rock climbing is unlike any other. Okay, so maybe sky diving is up there as well, but did you work really hard to get that high in the air to begin with? I would guess probably not. All you had to do was get on a plane and jump out. There was no effort involved. Rock climbing is exhilarating and rewarding, both mentally and physically. While on a climb, you experience many emotions such as fear, excitement, regret, and peace. Fear of falling, excitement in the moment, regret of putting yourself in that situation and peaceful serenity at the top as you marvel at your accomplishment.

Safety is the Highest Priority

Free climbing is one of the most dangerous and idiotic sports known to man. Period. Climbing without safety equipment is showing a complete disregard for one's life. The term "death wish" certainly applies in free climbing. I do not recommend it for anyone. However, rock/mountain climbing is a great experience when it is done safely. There is a lot of mountain climbing equipment that is required. What I would like to do now is to go into a little more detail about some of the mountain climbing gear you will need before getting on a wall.

Some of the Basics

First of all, you need to find a harness that fits tightly around your waist, and thighs. If it cannot fit snug against the frame of your body, there is a good chance you will break your back, or fall out of the harness altogether. Next you will need a sturdy, flexible rope. Just note that "static lines" are only meant for emergencies, and repelling down a wall. DO NOT use a static rope for regular climbing. You need a rope that will stretch and absorb the fall. If the rope has sustained a bad fall, it needs to be replaced. Never climb with a stiff rope. Another necessity is always having a chalk bag strapped to your waist.

Dipping your hands in powdered chalk helps to eliminate a lot of slipping with your hand holds. Make sure you always have an experienced belay person belaying you at all times. If you fall, your life is in their hands. The last thing I want to touch on with mountain climbing equipment is the shoes. Before you begin your climb, make sure you are wearing a good pair of rock climbing shoes. They need to be meant for climbing. They have a stiff, pointy sole that is great for difficult foot holds. They should be able to support the weight of your body from the tips of your toes. They need to be extra tight, and worn without socks. So when you go out shopping for rock climbing shoes, remember to buy a pair that is three to four sizes smaller than your normal size. They need to be uncomfortable to wear in order to keep your feet supported, and keep them from slipping off.

Pros of Rock Climbing

There are many positives of rock climbing. Most people view these benefits as far outweighing the possibility of injury.
When you consider the positive aspects of rock climbing, you usually think first of the physical benefits. Although rock climbing is practiced by both genders and almost all ages, it is a sport that requires a great deal of physical strength. Upper body strength is extremely important. Most people who become involved in the sport soon realize that they must be in excellent shape to even begin to enjoy it. This leads to an increase in physical conditioning that is most often beneficial to the participants overall health.
The sport also requires a great deal of mental self discipline. Many adherents of rock climbing point to this as one of the biggest positives. It demands total body awareness. Rock climbers often tell of how they never feel more alive than they do when they are clinging to the side of a rock. They must be aware of exactly where their feet and hands are located and every movement must be careful, slow, and deliberate.

Among the other positives is the relatively low cost of the equipment needed. Most experts claim that the rock climber can be outfitted with the best possible equipment for a little over $300. This is not expensive compared to the investment needed for equipment in some of the other extreme sports that are popular today.

Perhaps, the most important benefit of rock climbing is what it does for your personal self confidence. This is something that is a bit hard to explain and really has to be felt to be completely appreciated. Rock climbers will speak of the tremendous sense of accomplishment and the exhilaration that comes at the end of a successful climb. When a person stands at the base of a rock face and looks up, the climb appears impossible. It is something that can not be done. Yet, when you have done it, you begin to feel that there is little that you can not do.

Rock climbing has many positives. They are mental, physical, emotional, and financial benefits. There are some risks of injury as well, but the thousands of people who are taking up the sport and spreading it across the country feel the benefits far outweigh the risks. The indoor climbing hills have given more and more people a chance to taste these benefits in a place where the risks are the least, and many people who first experience rock climbing on the artificial climbs there are soon hooked and ready for the real thing outdoors.

Mountain Climbing Gear

Mountain climbing is a very popular sport. It is very exciting, adventurous and fun, provided you do it the right way. Mountaineering depends on your route, your partner and your level of expertise. Mountain climbing can also be very risky, as much depends on the weather, the mountain, and other conditions.
Being equipped with the right kind of gear is very important for mountain climbing. These days, there is very good equipment for climbing available. The gear is being made to be very durable, strong and light weight.

The main equipment used for mountain climbing includes: shoes/mountaineering boots, gloves, harnesses, ropes, racks, belay devices, locking carabiners, helmets, axes, headlamp, belay devices (sticht plate, ATC, Gri-Gri, Figure Eight), Descenders (figure eight, rescue eight, ATC), Ascenders, protection devices (nuts, hexcenters, spring loaded camming devices), sewn runners, climbing harnesses, climbing screws, pulleys, trekking pole, mountaineering shaft, pitons, haul bag, bouldering mat, holds, books/maps, special pants, and even underwear for rough weather. Other personal items may include: food and water, sunglasses, first aid kit, sun block, extra clothing, camera, tent, cookware, camp stove, sleeping bag/pad, a knife, approach shoes, chalk and chalk bag. Special training equipment for climbing includes: grip savers, fingerboards, campus boards and more.

Climbing gear has to be carefully carried, since it has to stay with you until you reach the top. You can clip some things to your harness, thus keeping the upper part of the body relatively lightweight. However, you may not be able to carry too many things like this, and there is also the chance of losing some of the things on the way. Most climbers use special backpacks that are designed to hold most of the essential things.
There are many providers of mountain climbing equipment. Some of the most popular brands are: Black Diamond, Volcom, Nixon, Oakley, Smith, Spy, The North Face, Nikita, Eagle Creek, Dakine, Mountain Hardwear and others. Climbing equipment has to be certified by the International Federation of Mountaineering Associations (UIAA) and the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Mountain climbing equipment can also be purchased online.

Rock Climbing Training Tips

In order to perfect something, there is always the need to learn the tips and skills from the experts who have been there before. The old maxim that practice makes better could not be more applicable. Rock climbing training is no different from the other training that people undertake for various reasons.
Some of the training that you need to go through for rock climbing purposes include using a beam or bar to attach your axes. Some of the training will require that you do not wear your shoes. Pull ups with arms at different lengths and heights will enable you to flex the muscles in a manner that will be applicable in climbing some specific types of boulders.More training experiences to learn from are the Bacahar ladders, which you use to carnak up on your tools. It requires the incorporation of the appropriate synchronization of moving and static muscle contractions to imitate the neuromuscular patterns of real climbing. Training requires that you be a person of stamina and strength, otherwise you may never be able to do the real rock climbing.
You can make use of the three key positions during the training, which are; fully locked, 90 degrees and 130-150 degrees. Make sure you test for specifics and strengths one hand at a time. Make sure you swing the axe 3-4 times above your head, like you would do when making a placement. Again, do something that entails the use of the hands and the feet at the same time. Your muscles must be well trained before you set out and this can be achieved through pulling up, locking off, raising the axe and mixed climbing. Give it a try.

Discover the Different Types of Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is a sport where a person climbs rock formations, both natural and artificial. The main goal in rock climbing is to make it from the bottom all the way to the top or summit. Many climbers seek out climbs that will challenge them. This is why rock climbing is considered an extreme sport. Most of the extreme climbs are quite dangerous and require amazing skills to master.
Generally there are only two categories though. Climbing can be free or aided. In free climbing ropes are used for safety only and not used to help the climber in his effort. In aided climbing the ropes are used for both security and to help the climber climb. Free climbing is the most dangerous type of climbing, but it is also the most popular. Most climbs will fall into this category.

Within these two categories there are different methods of the sport. They all are rooted in either a free or aided technique. In addition to the two different categories, it can take place either inside or outside.

Bouldering is when a short, low route is climbed. No safety ropes are used. If there is safety measures in place it is usually a boulder pad placed at the bottom or a spotter that will direct the climber to help him or her avoid hazards.

Free soloing is when one person climbs without any protection. This is extremely dangerous since a fall can kill or seriously injure the climber. This is similar to bouldering expect that the routes are often higher.

Solo aid is free soloing but with the use of a harness for some protection. There is still no rope used. Generally the climber will free climb except in areas where the route gets dangerous.

Indoor climbing is done inside as the name suggests. This is popular because it is not limited by weather conditions. It is a great way to improve skills and to try new techniques. Many enthusiasts do a lot of work indoors to help them prepare for a climb. There are limits to indoor climbing. Most climbers will use indoor gyms to master skills and techniques, but will do most of their climbing outside.

Deep water soloing is a form of rock climbing that is done with no protection. It is a little safer than free soloing because the route in directly above a deep body of water. If the climber falls then they fall into the water, lessening the chance of death or severe injury.

These are not the only types of rock climbing, but they are some of the more typical climbing situations. There are many different techniques and methods of it that allow for climbers to challenge themselves. Different techniques are often used to suit the terrain of the climb. Anyone serious about rock climbing should try to learn a variety of techniques. This will help them to be able to become a better climber and have the ability to tackle a variety of different climbs.

Basic Rock Climbing Terminology

If you get the climbing bug, you are entering a unique niche of people. Much like visiting another country, you need to get down some of the lingo being used.
Much like any sport, climbing has its own terminology. Unlike most other sports, the terminology often does not have an obvious meaning. Here are a few terms you should know.

Anchor - Not the kind you find on a boat. In climbing, the anchor is usually two pieces that support the belay when climbing. What is a belay? Read on.

Belay - The belay is rope anchor system used to provide support for a climber. The belay is often another person who feeds out rope to the climber as he or she makes progress up the climb. The belay is run through a friction system, often a mechanical brake. If the climber falls, the belay system is used to keep them from plunging to the ground.

Bouldering - Pretty much what it sounds like. To practice technique and have a bit of fun, you find large boulders and climb them. The relatively minimal height makes falling less of an issue, but you probably want to throw down some pads to cushion any falls. An excellent way to build up strength in muscles needed for more advanced climbs.

Crimp - Essentially the art of finding a finger hold where there doesn't appear to be one.

Elvis - Also known as the sewing machine. When a climbers leg starts to vibrate up and down. Causes include being tired, being scared out of your wits and good music.

Face Climbing - Pretty much what you think. The art of climbing a vertical face using primarily finger holds and edges to work your way up.

Harness - A nylon device worn around the waist and legs and tied off to supporting ropes. The harness is a safety feature everyone should wear.

Indoor Climbing - Also known as gym climbing. Most cities have climbing gyms where you can practice on walls inside. Alternatively, you can empty out your basement or garage and build your own. Great way to practice and build up strength.

Leading - The first person up on the climb. Responsible for determining the route, solving problems, placing anchors and so on. Not for beginners.

Pitch - Another term that means something other than what it sounds like. A pitch has nothing to do with the vertical angle of the rock. It is the distance between two belay points.

As with any new sport, you are going to run into far more terms than just these. If you don't know what something means, just ask. Rock climbing is one of those sports were beginners are universally welcomed and old pros tend to be very friendly.

Rock Climbing Gear Explained

There are several types of rock climbing, trad, sport, aid, and bouldering. There are some commonalities but each are unique. Each type requires certain equipment, or rock climbing gear.
Rock climbing gear encompasses a large list of equipment. From rope, draws, carabiners, harnesses, to ascenders, descenders and protection devices. Below you will find descriptions and uses for some of the rock climbing gear that every climber should know about!

· Rope, cord and webbing: There are two classes of rope used in climbing, static and dynamic. Dynamic rope is used to absorb the energy of falling climbers, the rope stretches reducing the force. While static rope stretch much less and are used as fixed rope and anchoring systems. Webbing is often used to extend the distance between protection and a tie-in point. It can also be used to create a harness to carry equipment.

· Draws (or Quickdraws): They are used to attach ropes to bolt anchors or other protection. They allow rope to run through without creating friction.

· Carabiners: These are metal loops with spring-loaded openings used as connectors. They are also known as biners.

· Harnesses: This is used to attach rope to a person. Most harnesses are worn around the pelvic area although there are other types available.

· Ascenders: This is a mechanical device used to ascend a rope. They require less effort, are strong and fast.

· Descenders: Also called Rappel Devices. These are basically friction brakes which are used for descending ropes.

· Protection Devices include nuts, hexcentrics, spring loaded camming devices and tricams.

More commonly known rock climbing gear includes shoes, gloves, helmets, resin and chalk. Climbing shoes are specifically designed foot wear for climbing. They increase your grip and are usually thin with a snug fit. There are other types of shoes used for edging and smearing.

There are mixed feelings about gloves, specifically belay gloves as some climbers say that they reduce your grip. Other climbers say they are great for lowering a climber without getting rope burn.

Helmets obviously are to reduce the impact on the skull when falling or from falling debris. There are mixed feelings on helmets as well. Depending upon the type of climb you are attempting, vanity and reduction in agility, will all affect your choice to wear one or not.

Basic Rock Climbing Gear

We've all seen rock climbers on television or in the movies. Climbing rocks and cliffs take skill and endurance. In case you were thinking about taking up rock climbing, a listing of the necessary equipment is outlined below.
Shoes: You can't wear your everyday hiking boots to climb a rock. Your shoe should be stiff and fit like a glove. Snug but not too tight. Because comfort is a concern, it's best not to mail order shoes for rock climbing, you'll definitely want to try them on first.
Harness: A harness is worn for safety and attaches to a rope so you won't fall off the rock. Your sales associate will help you find a harness that fits properly, but you'll want to be sure the harness fits comfortably around your thighs and waist.

Carbiners: These are actually hooks. You'll use these to attach different items to your harness.

Helmet: This very important piece of rock climbing equipment will protect your head from falling debris. It will also guard you against bumps and bruises if you should happen to bang against a wall. This may in fact, be the most important piece of rock climbing equipment you own. Make sure you try on your helmet prior to purchasing and that it fits comfortably.

Chalk: Rubbed on your hands, chalk will help you grip rocks. Comes in powdered or ball form.

Chalk Bag: Holds chalk and attaches to your harness.

Rope: Rope should be 10 or 11 millimeters in diameter and 50 to 60 meters long and should be able to stretch a bit under tension to protect a climber in the event of a fall.

Belay Device: This is used to hold a climber's rope. It helps the belayer protect the climberIf you're interested in rock climbing but don't know where to start, be sure to do your research. Not only are there plenty of books available, but there are articles all over the internet. It's strongly urged that you take lessons with an experienced instructor. If you're unsure of the proper equipment, your instructor or experienced sales person can help you with this. It's better to pay extra money to ensure safety than get seriously injured or worse because you don't know what you're doing.